CAROLINE'S JEWELRY WITH A PAST
JEWELRY MATERIAL TYPES
GOLD-FILLED (GF), GOLD-PLATED (GP), ROLLED GOLD (RGP) or SILVER PLATED (SP)
Refers to an operation where gold or silver is applied by a specific technique to the top of a base metal (usually copper, silver, brass, bronze).
SILVER-TOPPED GOLD (STG) or PLATINUM-TOPPED GOLD (PTG)
Refers to a solid gold base with silver or platinum placed over the top in a thick layer.
Silver was used prior to 1900 in place of platinum, or white gold (which had yet to be developed), to enhance a setting, usually set with diamonds. Platinum replaced silver when a method of easily working platinum was developed after the turn of the century. White gold become popular as a "cheaper" alternative to platinum around 1918.
NATURAL STONE / NATURAL PEARL
Refers to a stone which has not been color-enhanced (other than heat treating) or a pearl which was not produced by "culturing". Since heat treating has been a practice for centuries, it is difficult to determine if the process has been performed on stones in antique jewelry. Culturing pearls was first accomplished around 1910, jewelry older than this period contains "natural" pearls.
Click here for additional information on U.S. pearls
Diamonds are measured in carat weight or "points" (pt). There are 100 points in each carat of diamonds. Therefore,
10 points= 1/10 of a carat, also written as .10 points
25 points= 1/4 of a carat, also written as .25 points
50 points= 1/2 of a carat, also written as .50 points
75 points= 3/4 of a carat, also written as .75 points
100 points= 1 carat, also written as 1.00 carats
Additionally, cut, clarity and color are given for most diamond jewelry
Cuts vary greatly and include pear shaped, round, marquise, emerald, old miners, brilliant, etc.
Color is given in the GIA scale from "D" which is colorless through "I" which is slightly yellow. Colored diamonds are so noted.
Clarity is also shown in the GIA scale as, Internally Flawless (this designation indicates the very best in diamonds), Flawless, V V S1, V V S2, V S1,V S2, S I1, S I2, I1, I2, through I3. Each designation indicates imperfections in a diamond and require a practiced eye to determine. Since the color and clarity of a stone is subject to individual interpretations, we have endeavored to be as uniform in diamond analysis as possible.
Mounted stones are difficult to assess accurately in weight, clarity, and color and our analyses are often based on independent appraisals. Appraisals vary among jewelers and can are very subjective.
Colored gemstones are measured in carats or millimeter (mm) sizes. Some gemstones have inclusions and are taken as a part of the beauty of a natural gemstone. General color of gemstones and clarity are noted, if known.
PLATINUM
Platinum is pure to 99% and is sometimes combined with iridium, osmium, etc. from the same atomic family . Platinum is the most costly of precious metals used in jewelry.
GOLD
Gold is stated in karat weights which represent a percent of "pure" gold content, i.e.
24 Karat= 100% gold content
18 Karat= 75% gold content (prox)
14 Karat= 58% gold content (prox)
10 Karat= 42% gold content (prox)
Since pure gold is very soft, it is alloyed with other materials to give it strength and to produce "colors". Copper will create rose gold, zinc will produce white gold, etc. Most people who have allergies to gold are actually allergic to the alloy material, rather than to the gold itself.
SILVER
Silver has been produced for centuries due to its ability to be easily worked. Silver is considered "Sterling" if it is 92.5% pure, silver is considered to be "coin silver" at 90.0% pure.
HALLMARKS
Hallmarks are the "official" markings placed on some materials to indicate the material content and date of manufacture. Most European manufacturers have had hallmarks for many years, while in the U.S., they were not required until after around 1900. These are frequently seen on silver or gold and can be animal heads, numbers or letters, or many other types of markings.
MAKER'S MARK
Maker's marks indicate the manufacturer of a piece of jewelry, either shown as a name, initials, or a symbol. While many pieces have maker's marks, many others do not. Sometimes these marks allow a piece to be roughly dated.
An overwhelming number of requests to identify maker's marks or hallmarks or to appraise or evaluate jewelry, makes it impossible for Caroline's Jewelry to continue this service, except for customers. Your understanding is appreciated.
These are some general comments regarding jewelry and are not meant to be used as absolutes. If you have any questions regarding our definitions or you need a further explanation of any of the terms used in these pages, please contact us and we will attempt to give you this additional information.
